Hervieux Dumez Champagne Tradition NV SPDESSERT 20-year-old Roussanne

20-year-old Roussanne

trading precision for texture and depth

But like a pinch of salt on dish

with genuine structure to grow on

great sparkling — and Francois Chidaine is the man who proved Montlouis could do it every bit as well as Vouvray across the river

Hervieux Dumez Champagne Tradition NV SPDESSERT 20-year-old RoussanneSacy is not a village that shows up on many Champagne labels. It's a Premier Cru on the western flank of the Montagne de Reims, and four generations of the Hervieux and Dumez families have been quietly making wine there without much fuss. Tradition is their calling card: Pinot Noir leads, with Meunier and Chardonnay filling out the rest, drawn from Premier Cru parcels across Sacy, Chamery, Ecueil and Villedommange. The Meunier gives it a juicy,